Hastinapur

My trip home this March saw me travel to Hastinapur, which is about an hour and some minutes' drive from our place. We set off early morning, with a picnic lunch of poori-aloo, chhole and munchies stocked up in the car boot, to explore the land of the great Mahabharata! I was as excited as the kids were, for, it was after ages that I was actually 'traveling'! Almost like a 'first' time! And to top that, traveling to the land that's home to countless historic 'tales'!

I looked on with bated breath, as we entered the archway that read 'Hastinapur' Then one Jain temple lead to another...and we were yet to see the Hastinapur of yore!
Studded with 'money' in the name of makrana marble and Dhaulpur sandstone the Jain temples though, lend great architectural wealth to the entire area, have completely altered the landscape of Hastinapur!

It was nothing like the Hastinapur I had vague memories of, from my childhood, where old walls from ruins of forts and all peeped through thick woods, adding mystery to it all, not to mention, historical glimpses that aroused curiosity!

On quite some asking around and and going around in circles, on wild goose chases, we did come to some structures like a 'Karan mandir' said to be the the temple frequented by none other than the great warrior Karan. A small (insignificant looking) one room structure that looked quite recent especially with the dark 'pink' paint! I still can't believe it to have history! And if it does, it'll be lost soon, with the construction of attachments adjoining it, in progress, as part of it's restoration and beautification plan/project. Why would one need construction new rooms added to a so called historical 'building' to restore it?! Why do we need to 'renovate it?!

We also arrived at 'Draupadi Ghat' a small, agian--recent looking one room temple like structure with a sewage pond/tank to one side, with some dilpidated steps leading into it! A very narrow brick lined 'road' with farms on either side, led to 'Draupadi Mandir' the temple Draupadi probably visited, having bathed at Draupadi Ghat. Again, a very small structure--too small to be associated to the mighty Pandavas, just like the Ghat and Karan Mandir! The 'shiv ling' nested within, is said to have emerged naturally, in its current form/shape, being a part of a huge rocky hillock below the ground.

We some how missed exploring the 'Pandav Paul' which looked equally recent, with the same recent dark, reddish pink paint...it was nearing sunset, and we didn't want to undergo any risks, for the disappointment we were sure, was in store, for us, there!

We did have a great time picnicking in the monkey-infested lawns of Jambudweep, (with monkeys aiming at our food on all sides!) and visiting various structures there, especially climbing up the tall minar (tower). Visiting some other magnificent Jain temples including Kailash Parvat temple, (Kailash Parvat/hill is the salvation place of the first Teerthankar Bhagwan Rishabha Dev), Astapad temple and the old Digambar Jain temple added on to out happy day at Hastinapur, not to mention clicking loads of pictures wherever allowed.

Meeting Ravi, an affectionate kid who helped ward off the monkeys, and later became our tourist guide was another highlight of the day well spent! We drove back to Meerut, past dusk, playing antakshari--kids and grown-ups alike, lending more color to the beautiful day we spent (though 'walking into the history of Hastinapur' remained a disappointed dream)!

Golconda Fort

The fact that I've witnessed the light and sound show at the Golconda fort countless number of times and that I'm never able to decline visiting the place, I reckon, is proof enough of my fascination with it all! That I couldn't visit there for the last couple of years is entirely another story...

I got lucky once more, however, when my friend decided an outing for us on a balmy Sunday evening, and and we found ourselves headed to Golconda Fort! Once there, we climbed right up from the 'Bala Hissar Gate', to the summit of the fort--to Bala Hissar, the baradari as it is called, and the darbar hall or deewan-e-khaas (where the king held his private courts) passing by the 'aslah khana' (armoury), the offices of 'akanna-madanna' (the two officers of the court) the palaces, the mosques, the Mahakali temple from the times of the Kakatiyas, with frescoes of Godesses Kali and Durga, 'Ram Mandir' (a prison house of Ram Das, a revenue official jailed by Abul Hasan Tana Shah for misusing state funds, who carved images of Rama, Lakshman and Hanuman on the rock surface in the cell.) among others, on the way. The journey up the 380 steps was also a journey down the memory lane! I reveled in each moment there, and relived my associations with the place.

A descent down steep narrow steps brought us from the Bala Hisar to the zenana quarters 'Rani Mahal' palaces that are built on massive platforms, have high ceilings, and walls covered with decorative niches, alcoves and cornices, essentially Persian in design. Our tour of the Fort culminated in the main Rani Mahal courtyard, and my visit to the Fort in the light and sound show that completes our journey into the past glory of Golconda! This courtyard of the Rani Mahal area, adorned with an ornate metal fountain in the center, hosts the famous light and sound show, that commences with the beautiful Ghazal rendered by Jagjit Singh, and features the breathtaking baritone of Amitabh Bachan, that add manifold to the beauty of the show and to the glory that was!

Ek Gulshan Tha...

A rant...

More than a year! Ya, one year and a quarter since I came here and wrote...surprised?! Not me...it's been more than two years since I 'traveled!' More than two years! Can you beat this! You'd think I've given up eh? Never! Never would! Just on the hold...waiting...And what about the rarings and the longings? Well, they put up the best they could...ya, for very long...even bringing in the pinings and whinings. But how long could they hold on to the fortress...they had to give in, and they did! 'Accepting' what seemed like their 'command'...so it seemed. But did they really? Nope! Aren't they still waiting to raise a hood at the first instance? Sure are! There's this whimper from here or a whine from there, every now and then...that subsides of its own...thankfully! They've gotten used to it--the placidity of it all, and the giving up! Why whine then, you'd ask...And why not?! I'd say...two years is a very long time! And it's been more than two, to be precise, and, there's yet no end visible...yet no end to it all!

Ah!! the ordeal! There! There we go again! The whimper yet again!

Jaipur-1 -- Amber

It was very long ago (in the 90s) that my visits to Jaipur happened, yet it's all so vividly etched on my memory.

My first trip was in 1993, a time when my fascination for Rajasthan knew no bounds! We'd gone to visit our recently wed cousin and his wife in Alwar (My sister, both my brothers and a cousin). Alwar's a beautiful place, and our trip, in all, was one of the most enjoyable ones I've had. It'll take another post to talk about it, which I promise to deliver soon! Let me not divulge anymore here.

About to enter Amber, (pronounced Amer--aamer) the outline of a fort perched on the hill visible in the distance gives me goose bumps! Nostalgia like never before...ya! It'll sound strange, but I was too excited to speak (excitement generally makes me talkative!) I was almost in tears. In tears! For some strange reason!

Having passed through one of the majestic gateways to the city, soon we were in full view of the fort...were going up the path to visit it...overwhelmed already, too moved to speak, I had that 'impossible to wipe, ear to ear' grin plastered on my face.

Amber fort or Amergarh is an illustrious fort atop a hill, with Maota Lake in its foreground adding manifold to its appeal. Built to be the seat of the Kachhwaha clan, and to guard the Rajputana on the Delhi side, it was the capital until Jaipur was made the official capital in 1727. Built in sandstone and finished with white marble, it's an architectural treat, for it boasts a blend not only of different materials, but also of different styles--Hindu and Mughal styles of ornamentation.

An option of an elephant ride to the top was available, and availed by many, but we chose to drive all the way up, to the gate. The security mechanisms at Amber were very advance, given the times of its construction. Steep bends on the winding way up to the fort, to ensure slow progress of riders being the foremost among them.

Elaborate details to perfection, and a fine eye for detail are things you can marvel at, while at the fort. It's vastness made us wonder about all the effort taken to build it. The outer wall seems to go on and on into the horizon, and beyond! Along with other beautiful palaces, all ornamented with carvings, murals, frescoes and precious stone inlay work in marble, the fort also houses a Sheesh Mahal (a palace/hall lined with tiny mirrors). Unfortunately, we didn't have the chance to see it, because some shooting was in progress in that section, and entry was prohibited.

This enormous fort, also known as the fort complex, is divided into four sections, and each part is accessible either via broad pathways leading to them, or from large staircases leading from a central location. Surajpol, the main entrance of the fort takes us to Jaleb Chowk, the main courtyard of the Fort where the staircases to the palaces are located. Countless number of steps at the rear of the fort lead to a large water tank, way below.

Visiting Amber fort covers a good portion of a day. It left us exhausted yet exhilarated and hungry for more. We'd have loved to spend some more time there and explore, but it was time for the fort to close, and we had Kanak Vrindavan to visit before we went 11 more kilometers further, to reach Jaipur.

Just outside Amer, on Amer-Jaipur road is another visual marvel made in Dholpur stone, called Kanak Vrindavan, also known as 'Phoolon Vaali Ghaati' locally. It consists of a temple complex, and exquisite landscaped gardens, set in the lap of the beautiful Kanak valley, formed by the Arravali ranges. This three century old structure is a typical example of Rajputana architecture. The foliage here mainly includes kadamba trees and dhok trees, abundantly found in Vrindavan near Mathura. Hence the name 'Vrindavan.' Also, the temple here is dedicated to Govind deoji and Natawarji.

Visiting this beautiful place just before dusk gave us the opportunity to see it by daylight, at sunset, and brightly lit in artificial lights. The sprawling gardens and the beautiful view of Jal Mahal in the background have a soothing effect on tired souls, along with the pleasantly ornamented structures of the complex. Soon it was time to move on for a night halt at Jaipur.