Monday, March 30, 2009

Jaipur-1 -- Amber

It was very long ago (in the 90s) that my visits to Jaipur happened, yet it's all so vividly etched on my memory.

My first trip was in 1993, a time when my fascination for Rajasthan knew no bounds! We'd gone to visit our recently wed cousin and his wife in Alwar (My sister, both my brothers and a cousin). Alwar's a beautiful place, and our trip, in all, was one of the most enjoyable ones I've had. It'll take another post to talk about it, which I promise to deliver soon! Let me not divulge anymore here.

About to enter Amber, (pronounced Amer--aamer) the outline of a fort perched on the hill visible in the distance gives me goose bumps! Nostalgia like never before...ya! It'll sound strange, but I was too excited to speak (excitement generally makes me talkative!) I was almost in tears. In tears! For some strange reason!

Having passed through one of the majestic gateways to the city, soon we were in full view of the fort...were going up the path to visit it...overwhelmed already, too moved to speak, I had that 'impossible to wipe, ear to ear' grin plastered on my face.

Amber fort or Amergarh is an illustrious fort atop a hill, with Maota Lake in its foreground adding manifold to its appeal. Built to be the seat of the Kachhwaha clan, and to guard the Rajputana on the Delhi side, it was the capital until Jaipur was made the official capital in 1727. Built in sandstone and finished with white marble, it's an architectural treat, for it boasts a blend not only of different materials, but also of different styles--Hindu and Mughal styles of ornamentation.

An option of an elephant ride to the top was available, and availed by many, but we chose to drive all the way up, to the gate. The security mechanisms at Amber were very advance, given the times of its construction. Steep bends on the winding way up to the fort, to ensure slow progress of riders being the foremost among them.

Elaborate details to perfection, and a fine eye for detail are things you can marvel at, while at the fort. It's vastness made us wonder about all the effort taken to build it. The outer wall seems to go on and on into the horizon, and beyond! Along with other beautiful palaces, all ornamented with carvings, murals, frescoes and precious stone inlay work in marble, the fort also houses a Sheesh Mahal (a palace/hall lined with tiny mirrors). Unfortunately, we didn't have the chance to see it, because some shooting was in progress in that section, and entry was prohibited.

This enormous fort, also known as the fort complex, is divided into four sections, and each part is accessible either via broad pathways leading to them, or from large staircases leading from a central location. Surajpol, the main entrance of the fort takes us to Jaleb Chowk, the main courtyard of the Fort where the staircases to the palaces are located. Countless number of steps at the rear of the fort lead to a large water tank, way below.

Visiting Amber fort covers a good portion of a day. It left us exhausted yet exhilarated and hungry for more. We'd have loved to spend some more time there and explore, but it was time for the fort to close, and we had Kanak Vrindavan to visit before we went 11 more kilometers further, to reach Jaipur.

Just outside Amer, on Amer-Jaipur road is another visual marvel made in Dholpur stone, called Kanak Vrindavan, also known as 'Phoolon Vaali Ghaati' locally. It consists of a temple complex, and exquisite landscaped gardens, set in the lap of the beautiful Kanak valley, formed by the Arravali ranges. This three century old structure is a typical example of Rajputana architecture. The foliage here mainly includes kadamba trees and dhok trees, abundantly found in Vrindavan near Mathura. Hence the name 'Vrindavan.' Also, the temple here is dedicated to Govind deoji and Natawarji.

Visiting this beautiful place just before dusk gave us the opportunity to see it by daylight, at sunset, and brightly lit in artificial lights. The sprawling gardens and the beautiful view of Jal Mahal in the background have a soothing effect on tired souls, along with the pleasantly ornamented structures of the complex. Soon it was time to move on for a night halt at Jaipur.

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